by Brett Manero
In June of 2024, I had the pleasure of visiting Charleston, South Carolina, with my father and brother. The city is a traveler’s delight, and the only complaint I had was having to leave far too soon.
Before visiting a new place for the first time, we often have a unique idea of what the place will look and feel like, only for that expectation to be upended when we arrive. With Charleston, I’d say the experience of it went above and beyond what I expected. It has everything a small city can offer: beautiful architecture, palm trees, ocean views, great dining, friendly people with some southern charm, fascinating history, and somewhat of a feel of Europe.
On Day 1, we explored the parks and area by the water, as Charleston rests right on the bay that leads out to the Atlantic Ocean. One will find several Civil War monuments lining the water, and one can even catch a glimpse of Fort Sumter in the water in the distance. Sumter is, of course, where the American Civil War effectively began, as South Carolina became the first state to secede from the United States and attacked the Union garrison on the island fort. We didn’t have time to take the tour of the Fort, but one can do so by taking a ferry out to the fort. Next time.
A must for Charleston is also the world-famous BBQ food: Lewis BBQ is where we had a late lunch, with probably the best brisket one can find. Be prepared for large helpings and a very long line but it’s well worth the wait.
The Citadel is also worth visiting for anyone interested in military history, as the school lies just outside of the city. While quiet in the summertime, seeing some old US Army artillery and helicopter was interesting, and the library offers a free and decent Citadel Museum. By “decent,” it has one room but because it offers a free entry, it’s worth it.
The Charleston Museum was a stop we also made. While my father wasn’t impressed, I was, and I wish I could have spent more time in it. As I wrote earlier, South Carolina was the first state to leave the Union and spark the Civil War, so naturally the museum offers tremendous historical information on the city’s part in starting the war. You’ll also read about two abolitionist women from Charleston who bravely attempted to end slavery in the South – something that’s not discussed enough. You’ll also see the history of the city during colonial times and all the way up to the Second World War and beyond. Well worth the visit.
To tap if off, we had dinner at Muse, an Italian restaurant some three blocks or so from the Frances Marion Hotel, where we lodged. This is one of the best restaurants in the city. Walking the streets of Charleston to Muse is where one feels a flair of European cities: small streets where the wind quickly passes through, unique stores and shops, cafes, etc. My brother noted that Charleston has very few “big name” brands (Starbucks, etc), but rather locally-owned restaurants and stores. If you’d like to take a trip to Europe but can’t quite afford it, Charleston might offer a nice alternative.
On Day 2, we had breakfast at a local deli, while determining to make the most of our last full day there.
Perhaps the most powerful experience was visiting Boone Hall Plantation in Mt. Pleasant, about a twenty-five-minute drive from the city. One of the most prominent Old South plantations in the area, visiting it is a haunting and enlightening experience. Entering the property, one feels an air of Gone With the Wind with the magnificent trees, the broad open space, and the mansion that greets you. But as you approach the mansion, you can’t help but notice about ten or so old huts on the left of the property: what remains of the horrific legacy of slavery. These huts housed countless human beings during the era of legalized slavery. As a Northerner and fan of Civil War history, visiting it was especially powerful. We read about the awful history of American slavery, and we well know that the terrible effects of slavery remain with a nation for generations (read the Book of Isaiah – written some 700 years after the Hebrew Exodus from Egypt – Egypt is still atoning for its crimes of slavery centuries later). But there is something even more real about seeing the huts for themselves: thinking of so many precious humans crammed into these tiny buildings, forced to work at least six days per week on the cotton fields, while their owners lived comfortably in the nearby mansion. The tour guide – kudos to him for an excellent presentation – shared with us the shocking truth that about 1,200 slaves are buried on the grounds of the plantation in unmarked graves. It is therefore sacred ground. While visiting the plantation is very moving, it is well worth it.
The next major stop was the USS Yorktown Museum on the water. If you love military history and especially Navy history, this is your place. The carrier itself was built during the Second World War and served in many different areas, and now serves as a museum with aircraft from several decades of American history. If you enjoy this kind of history, go for it. If not, no need to stop by.
All in all, Charleston is a magnificent small city. I would visit again and again and gladly so.
Some extra tips:
If you are Catholic (and if you’re not!): check out St. Mary of the Annunciation Parish right in the heart of the city. They offer an 8am Mass Monday-Friday, with the Masses on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays being in the Anglican Ordinariate format, if you’re up for a slightly different liturgical feel.
If you have the budget: the Frances Marion Hotel in downtown Charleston is one of the oldest and finest in the city. They offer free coffee (and high quality coffee too) in the mornings and cookies in the lobby in the afternoon.
